Featured Country

Jan 2012

Germany

Introduction

Situated at the crossroads of Europe, the country consists of 16 states (Bundesländer), which are divided for the purposes of this section as follows: Berlin, Baden-Württemburg, Bavaria, Brandenburg, Hesse, Mecklenburg-Western Pomerania, Northwest Germany (the states of Lower Saxony, Schleswig-Holstein, Hamburg and Bremen), Rhineland (North Rhine-Westphalia, Rhineland Palatinate and Saarland), Saxony, Saxony-Anhalt, Thuringia, Northwest Germany includes the North Sea coast and the East Friesian Islands, Schleswig-Holstein and the city-states of Hamburg and Bremen, along with the Weser Valley, Lüneburg Heath and part of the Harz Mountains.

The Rhineland region incorporates the industrial sprawl of the Ruhr, the varied landscapes of Westphalia, the wine-producing region of Rhineland-Palatinate, and Saarland. The state of Hesse with its ‘fairytale road’, also includes the major financial centre of Frankfurt-am-Main.

The Black Forest is in the southwest, and forms part of the state of Baden-Württemberg. Other areas of interest in this state include the Neckar Valley, Swabia and Lake Constance.

Munich (München) is the capital of Bavaria, whose main tourist regions are the Bavarian Forest to the east, Franconia to the north, Upper Bavaria and the Alps to the south and the Allgäu region of the south west. Bavaria is the most popular tourist destination for both Germans and overseas visitors alike.

The states of Brandenburg (which surrounds Berlin), Mecklenburg-Western Pomerania (on the Baltic coast), Saxony, Saxony-Anhalt, Thuringia, and of course eastern Berlin itself, constituted the former East Germany (GDR) prior to re-unification in 1990. The Baltic coast with its resorts is the major holiday region in the former east, followed in importance by the Thuringian Forest, the northern lakes, the Saxon Hills, the Harz Mountains and the Zittauer Gebirge.

The scenery of Germany is enormously varied, ranging from sandy beaches to towering mountains, forests, lakes, medieval villages and some of Europe’s greatest cities. Every area has its distinct regional foods, and it offers a huge choice of local wines and beers.

Berlin

Berlin is the largest city in Germany. It is also the country’s capital and seat of Government. The recently renovated German Parliament (Reichstag), designed by British architect Norman Foster, testifies to the construction boom currently taking place in the German capital.

Since November 1989 when the Wall came down, nearly 100 streets have been reconnected, disused ‘ghost’ railway stations have sprung back to life and the watchtowers, dogs and barbed wire that divided the city, the country and indeed the continent for 28 years have virtually disappeared. Nevertheless there is often stark contrast between the two parts of the city, partly due to economic contrasts between East and West, but also because they have never been of a uniform character.

The east contains the densely populated working class quarters of Mitte, Pankow, Prenzlauer Berg and Friedrichshain which inspired the theatre of Erwin Piscator and Bertolt Brecht. West Berlin also had its poorer areas like Wedding, Neuköln and Kreuzberg (the latter known for its pubs and the high proportion of Turkish-owned shops in its streets).

In comparison, the green and leafy areas of Charlottenburg and Zehlendorf have a more affluent atmosphere. After the city was occupied by the four post-war victorious powers, the two halves diverged even more as West Berliners broke away from their past and embraced the idea of a new, intensely Western, Americanised city.

At the same time their eastern counterparts chose instead to retain what remained of the old Berlin. This is why the eastern half of the city probably gives a more accurate image of what Berlin was like in the 1920s and 30s.

To find areas retaining the pre-war atmosphere, visitors must move away from the city centre. Alexanderplatz, was one of the main centres of 1920s Berlin as well as of post-war East Berlin. It is now re-emerging as an important focal point in the newly united city. Relentless modernisation, however, has changed the character of the Alexanderplatz, which is now a bustling if faceless area of cafés, hotels and the 365m-high (1190ft) Television Tower (Fernsehturm) which dominates the skyline of the city. The oldest church in Berlin, the Nikolai Church (13th century) lent its name to the surrounding district, the Nikolaiviertel. This part of the city suffered tremendously during the war. Rebuilding consists partly of historic details, partly of modern façades.

Sweeping westwards away from Alexanderplatz is Unter den Linden, which Frederick the Great saw as the centrepiece of his royal capital and which changed from one of the premier thoroughfares of the old unified city to the showpiece of the German Democratic Republic. Restored monumental buildings, and diplomatic missions to the former GDR capital now line it. However, for nearly 30 years it was a dead-end, cut off by the Wall. At its western end, the Brandenburg Gate (Brandenburger Tor) has been the supreme symbol of the city of Berlin since it was built in 1791. The Wall once partly obscured the view of the Gate from the West, so it became a potent symbol of European division. Now it is again accessible from both East and West.

The Berlin Wall has all but gone and walkers and cyclists now roam along what was once nicknamed ‘Todesstreifen’ or Death Strip. Quite a few tourists bought their ‘own’ piece of the Wall – museums also display pieces.

There is a Berlin Wall Museum situated at the former Checkpoint Charlie in Friedrichstrasse.

Berlin is not just an industrial city but also a cultural and scientific capital with several universities. It houses three opera houses, 53 theatres, more than 100 cinemas, and no less than 170 museums and galleries. It is worth noting that in Germany most foreign films are dubbed into German; look for the ‘O.m.U.’ indicator for the original language versions shown with German subtitles.

East Berlin has a rich array of museums, most of which can be found on Museumsinsel (Museum Island) in a fork of the River Spree.

The most famous is the Pergamon Museum which houses works of classical antiquity such as the Pergamon Altar and art of the Near East, Islam and the Orient. Among the many museums in the west are the Ägyptisches Museum (Egyptian Museum) in Charlottenburg, which contains the world-famous bust of Queen Nefertiti; the museums at Dahlem housing the major part of the Prussian State art collections; and the Berlin Museum in the old Supreme Court Building in Kreuzberg.

The restored Martin-Gropius-Bau houses changing art exhibitions and the Berlin Gallery, with exhibits of the Jewish collection of the Berlin Museum and 20th-century paintings. Nearby is the Prinz Albrecht area where the Gestapo headquarters, later the Reichssicherheitshauptamt, stood. The Topography of Terror exhibition documents this part of its history.

The Kulturforum Art Gallery (opened in 1998) stands alongside the National Gallery, the Philharmonic, the Chamber Music Hall and other museums, and serves as a new cultural centre for the city. The Hamburger Bahnhof, Invalidenstrasse, a restored railway station, contains a collection of modern art. Potsdamerplatz is presently under development as another recreational centre with shops and an IMAX cinema.

One of the main cultural attractions of the eastern part of Berlin is the Deutsche Staatsoper (German State Opera) staging performances in a refurbished classical setting.

Three times a day, visitors can enjoy the carillon of the French Cathedral bell-tower. The German Cathedral on Gendarmenmarkt now contains an exhibition called Fragen an die Deutsche Geschichte (Questioning German History).

The heart of West Berlin is the Kurfürstendamm, popularly referred to as the ‘Ku’damm’. As with so many features of this once divided city it is all too easy to attribute symbolic significance to the ‘Ku’damm’, for in a sense it is the embodiment of the glitzy materialistic West.

Pulsating with traffic and people 24 hours a day and lined with cafes and shops, despite unification it still seems a thousand miles away from the bleak Alexanderplatz in the other half of the city. Strolling eastwards along the Ku’damm one will come to the Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche. Preserved as a ruin after World War II, it is a stark reminder of the city’s wartime bombardment.

Not far from here is the Europa Center, containing shops, nightlife and a rooftop café with a splendid view of the whole city and the KaDeWe (short for Kaufhaus des Westens) department store.

Other attractions in the western half of the city include: the Siegessäule (Victory Column), built at the order of Kaiser Wilhelm I two years after victory in the Franco-Prussian War of 1871; and the Tiergarten, an English-style park in the heart of the city. Schloss Charlottenburg, the splendid Baroque and Rococo palace of Frederick the Great, was the former summer home of the king outside Berlin. The Palace Park is ideal for long walks. The Gedenkstätte Plötzensee is a memorial to more than 2500 members of the Resistance who were executed here and generally to German resistance during the Nazi regime.

It is easy to find diversion from city life, as the city boundaries include numerous recreational areas, such as the Pfaueninsel (peacock island), now a nature reserve, the Spandau and Tegel Forests and the Grünewald. The People’s Park Friederichshain in the eastern part of the city is the largest and oldest park in east Berlin.

Baden-Württemberg

The Neckar Valley, in the north of the state, is a major wine-growing region, with vineyards located around castles such as Gutenberg, Hornberg and Hirschhorn, each of which offers splendid views of the surrounding landscape.

To the east of the romantic university town of Heidelberg, another scenic route begins, the 280km-long (175-mile) Castle Road, which leads to Nuremberg in Bavaria. This route follows the river, branching off at Heilbronn and continuing east to medieval places such as Rothenburg and Ansbach, also across the state border in Bavaria.

Further to the south is the Swabian Jura, a limestone plateau between the Black Forest and Europe’s longest river, the Danube. Places to visit here include Hohenzollern Castle near Hechingen, Beuren Abbey and the Bären Caves. Picturesque towns include Urach and Kirchheim-unter-Teck.

Einstein’s birthplace, Ulm, houses the world’s tallest cathedral spire (161m/528ft). Following the road from Ulm one reaches Reutlingen and Blaubeuren, with its fine abbey. Zwiefalten has another remarkable Baroque church.

In the southwestern corner of the state, the Rhine acts as a natural border between France, Germany and Switzerland. To the east of the river lies the Black Forest (Schwarzwald) where fine mountain scenery and beautifully situated lakeside resorts like Titisee-Neustadt and Schluchsee combine to make the area popular year-round – with walkers in summer and skiers in winter. The historical character of the area is preserved in the Black Forest Open Air Museum at Gutach.

The Romans first recognised the therapeutic powers of the Black Forest’s springs. In addition to the region’s best-known spa town, Baden-Baden, there are many other charming villages and resorts in the surrounding area, principally Freudenstadt, which claims to have more hours of sunshine than any other German town. The climatic spa of Triberg has 162m-high (531ft) waterfalls and a swimming pool surrounded by evergreens.

BADEN-BADEN: The Black Forest’s chief spa, Baden-Baden, was the summer capital of Europe during the last century. Travellers still flock to this delightful town to ‘take the waters’, which may be inhaled as a vapour, bathed in or simply drunk. Fortified by the water’s therapeutic powers, one can take advantage of the town’s many sporting facilities. For the less energetic, the evening could be spent playing roulette or baccarat in a casino which Marlene Dietrich herself regarded as the most elegant in the world. Other attractions include the Baroque Kleines Theater, National Art Gallery, the Friedrichsbad Romano-Irish temple and baths the Margravial Palace (museum), 15th-century Collegiate Church, Russian Church, Romanesque Chapel, parks and gardens, Lichtentaler Allee, tennis, riding, 18-hole golf course, winter sports, international horseracing weeks at Iffezheim and a modern congress hall.

CONSTANCE (KONSTANZ): Constance is a German university and cathedral town on the Bodensee (Lake Constance) which has shores in Austria, Switzerland and the Germany. Constance (Konstanz) is a frontier anomaly, a German town on the Swiss side of the lake, completely surrounded by Swiss territory except for a strip on the waterfront. Attractions include the Konzilsgebäude (14th century); Renaissance Town Hall (16th century); historic old Insel Hotel (14th century); Barbarossa-Haus (12th century); Hus-Haus (15th century); and the old town fortifications Rheintorturm, Pulverturm and Schnetztor. The town has theatres, concert halls, a casino and hosts an international music festival as well as the Seenachtfest, a lake festival. Reichenau, an island with a famous monastery and the island of Mainau, with stilted buildings, make an interesting day trip.

Excursions: The Bavarian town of Lindau is a former free imperial city on an island in Lake Constance. It has a medieval town centre and an old Town Hall (1422-35). Other attractions include Brigand’s Tower, Mang Tower (old lighthouse), Cavazzen House (art collection), Heidenmauer (wall), St Peter’s with Holbein frescoes; harbour entry (new lighthouse); international casino; and boat trips. Opposite the town of Constance (Konstanz) is Meersburg, an old town with two castles. Here is also the German Newspaper Museum which covers the history of the German-language press on its three floors. The museum is only open during the summer. As an area Lake Constance is the focal point of a delightful holiday district, rich in art treasures and facilities for outdoor activities. The Rheinfall (Rhine Falls) at Schaffhausen, a Swiss town on the north shore of the lake, are a spectacular draw just over the border.

FREIBURG: Freiburg is the gateway to the Black Forest, an archepiscopal see and an old university town. The Gothic Cathedral (12th-15th centuries) has a magnificent tower (116m/380ft) and is a much lauded architectural masterpiece. Views from the top are reward indeed for the climb. Other attractions include the historic red Kaufhaus on the Cathedral Square (1550); Germany’s oldest inn, Zum Roten Bären; and many excellent wine taverns. The city is famous for its trout and game dishes and environmental innovation – for which it has earned the title of ‘green capital’ of Germany. Museums include Zinnfigurenklause (pewter figures) and the Augustinemuseum housing Upper Rhine art. The Wentzingerhaus hosts the City History Museum. The nearby Schauinsland Mountain (1284m/4213ft) is accessible by cable car.

Excursions: Nearby Todtnauberg in the Upper Black Forest is the highest resort in the Black Forest (1006m/3300ft) and a perfect observation point is the Belchen summit nearby. The highest mountain is the Feldberg, with its popular winter skiing slopes.

HEIDELBERG: The most famous place on the Neckar River is Germany’s oldest university town, Heidelberg, dominated by the ruins of its famous 14th-century castle. Other attractions include more than ten museums; the ‘Giant Cask’ in the cellar holding 220,000 litres (48,422 gallons); Church of the Holy Ghost; St Peter’s Church; Karlstor (gate); and wine taverns. The castle is partly Renaissance, partly Gothic and Baroque in style; and serenade concerts take place during the summer in the courtyard. Another highlight is the German Museum of Pharmacy.

HEILBRONN: Heilbronn is a former imperial city, surrounded by vineyards and situated on the Castle Road. The Renaissance Town Hall has an outside staircase, clock, gable and astronomical clock. Other attractions include the 16th-century Käthchen House, the Gothic Kilian Church with its 62m-high (203ft) tower (1513-29), and the Shipping Museum. The town is also a good base for excursions into the Neckar Valley.

KARLSRUHE: The prime reasons for visiting Karlsruhe are the town’s Schloss and surrounding Schlossgarten parkland. It also offers the ZKM Centre for Art and Media museum.

MANNHEIM: Mannheim is a commercial, industrial and cultural centre on the confluence of the rivers Rhine and Neckar. Attractions include the former Electors’ Palace, now the university; the Kunsthalle fine arts museum; the Barockschloss castle; Municipal Art Gallery; Reiss Museum in the old arsenal; the old Town Hall and Market Square; and the National (Schiller) Theatre.

STUTTGART: The state capital is a green and open city surrounded by trees and vineyards with only a quarter of its area built on. Two of its major industries are car manufacture and the publishing industry. Attractions include the modern Staatsgalerie; the Prinzenbau and Alte Kanzlei on the Schillerplatz; the Neues Schloss, a vast palace now accommodating the State Museum, which served as the residence for the kings of Württemberg and has been painstakingly restored after 1945; Württemberg Regional Museum; 15th-century Collegiate Church; TV Tower (217m/711ft high); Killesberg Park; Ludwigsburg Palace; Wilhelma Zoo; botanical gardens; theatre (ballet); and mineral-water swimming pools. The Stuttgart Ballet and Chamber Orchestra enjoy worldwide renown. There are Mercedes and Porsche museums, a covered Markthalle (Market Hall), and wine and beer museums. The city is also home to the Carl Zeiss Planetarium.

TÜBINGEN: Tübingen, south of Stuttgart, is a world-famous romantic university town on the River Neckar. The old town centre is unspoilt. Attractions include the Castle of the Count Palatine (1078); late Gothic Collegiate Church (1470) with royal burial place; Market Square with Town Hall (1453); picturesque Neckar front; Hölderlin Tower; former student dungeons (1514); old and new lecture theatres (Aula) of the university; Bebenhausen Abbey and the Schloss Hohentübingen museum.

ULM: Ulm is famous above all for its soaring Gothic Cathedral (768 steps in the 161m/528ft tower; choir stalls by J Syrlin). Other attractions include the beautiful Town Hall with famous astronomical clock; Corn Exchange (1594); Schuhaus (1536); Schwörhaus (1613); old town and fishermen’s quarter with city wall and Metzgerturm (butchers’ tower); Wiblingen Abbey, Baroque library; German Bread Museum; and the Municipal Museum with local works of art.

Bavaria

Bavaria consists of four main tourist areas: the Bavarian Forest and East Bavaria; Swabia and the Allgäu in the southwest; Upper Bavaria in the south; and Franconia to the north. The state offers varying landscapes – towering mountains in the Alpine south, lakes, forests and many resorts.

UPPER BAVARIA: In the Upper Bavaria region the best-known places include Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Berchtesgaden, Mittenwald and Oberammergau, home of the Passion Play. One of the most spectacular feats of architecture, epitomising the fairytale landscape of Bavaria is Neuschwanstein Castle, built by Ludwig II. Constructed on the ridge of a mountain valley surrounded by snow capped peaks, it is a vision from fairyland, while at night it changes into the perfect home for Count Dracula.

BAVARIAN FOREST: The vast Bavarian Forest is in the east, bordering the Czech Republic, and contains the first German national park. This unspoiled and peaceful region offers outdoor activities, especially walking. Historic towns such as the three-river town of Passau and 2000-year-old Regensburg provide interesting contrasts to the nature reserves. The northern part of Bavaria, Franconia, is rich in art treasures. Its main attractions include medieval and historic old towns such as Coburg, home of Prince Albert (consort of Queen Victoria); the cathedral town of Bamberg; Bayreuth, which stages the annual Wagner Opera Festival; and Würzburg, with its world-famous Baroque palace, set on the River Main among the Franconian vineyards. Nuremberg (Nürnberg), the main city in this region, is a modern metropolis, yet the centre of the town has retained its traditional style. The many valleys, forests, lakes and castles of the ‘Swiss’ Franconian area and the Fichtel Mountains, combined with the nature reserves in the Altmühl Valley, make Franconia a popular holiday centre.

THE ROMANTIC ROAD: Connecting the northern area of Bavaria with the south is the most famous of all the German scenic roads – the Romantic Road. The towns along the way give visitors an excellent insight into the region’s history, art and culture. Places of particular interest are Würzburg; medieval Rothenburg, Dinkelsbühl and Nördlingen; Augsburg, founded in 15BC by the Romans; the pilgrimage church Wieskirche in the meadows; Steingaden Abbey; and the most popular site of all, Neuschwanstein Castle near the village of Schwangau.

MUNICH: The Bavarian capital, Munich (München), is the third-largest German city with 1.3 million inhabitants, and is a major international arts and business centre. The 800-year-old city has numerous museums and several fine Baroque and Renaissance churches.

The Alte Pinakothek is home to the largest collection of Rubens paintings in the world; directly opposite is the Neue Pinakothek with a collection of modern paintings. A new modern art gallery, Pinakothek der Moderne, opened in summer 2002. Another new gallery, the Museum der Fantasie, opened in Munich in 2001.

The German Museum (natural science and technology) with planetarium and a life-size coal mine is also interesting for children. A major new extension, the German Transport Centre, opened here in May 2002.

Elsewhere in the city, motoring enthusiasts will find the BMW (Bayerische Motorwerke) Museum dedicated to the famous marque manufactured in Munich.

The Lenbach Gallery is located in the impressive villa of the Munich ‘Painter Viscount’. Only a short walk away is the Glyptothek on the Königsplatz, housing Greek and Roman sculptures. Other attractions include the Royal Palace and Royal Treasury; Bavarian National Museum and others; the Church of Our Lady (Frauenkirche); the Theatinerkirche and Asamkirche; and the Church of St Michael. The New and Old Town Halls, and the restored Mariensäule surround the Marienplatz. Three times daily a large group gathers here to witness a glockenspiel carillon depicting the Schäfflertanz.

The Olympia Park with its stadium (home of Bayern Munich) is now a recreational area. Site of the 1972 Olympic Games, city residents now use its facilities.

Munich hosts the best-known of all German events, the Oktoberfest beer festival. This had its origins in 1810 when Crown Prince Ludwig of Bavaria married Princess Therese von Sachsen-Hildburghausen. The people liked the festival so much that it became a regular feature and now takes place annually for two weeks – the first Sunday in October is always the last day of the festival. Munich’s nine breweries all have their own beer tents at the festival, but the city has many famous permanent beer cellars, including the Hofbräuhaus and the Mathäser Bierstadt, largest in the world.

The city’s artists’ colony is in the district of Schwabing which also features shops, cafés, small theatres and market stalls along its Leopoldstrasse.

The Englischer Garten, one of the largest parks in Europe, offers an escape from the city bustle. Right in the middle stands the Chinese Tower, surrounded by beer gardens. The many theatres include the National Theatre (opera house), the Rococo theatre built by Cuvilliés and the Schauspielhaus (playhouse). The Nymphenburg Palace is home to a portrait gallery and a famous collection of china. The Fasching (carnival) season reaches its peak during February with several balls and other festivities; but the Auer Dult, a funfair and flea market, takes place three times a year.

AUGSBURG: Founded in AD 15 by the Romans, Augsburg lies northwest of Munich and was once the financial centre of Europe. It was also the home of the Fuggers, a famous medieval aristocratic family and great patrons of the arts. Here, in 1555, German religious conflict during the Reformation ended following the signing of a Peace Treaty. It also boasts the Fuggerei – the oldest ‘council’ housing in the world, dating back to 1519. Other attractions include the Cathedral (807 Romanesque/1320 Gothic) with 12th-century stained-glass windows and 11th-century bronze door; St Anna’s Church (16th-century Luther memorial); Town Hall (1615); Perlach Tower; Baroque fountains (16/17th centuries); City Gates (14-16th centuries); Schaezler Palace and Rococo banquet hall (18th century) with German Baroque gallery and an Old German gallery with paintings by Holbein and Dürer; Maximilian Museum; Roman Museum; and Mozart’s House.

BAMBERG: An old imperial town and bishopric, Bamberg stands on seven hills, and has many medieval and Baroque buildings. Attractions include the Imperial Cathedral (13th century) with famous ‘Bamberger Reiter’ sculpture, reliefs, royal tombs and Veit Stoss altar; the old Town Hall; picturesque fishermen’s dwellings (‘Little Venice’); the Franconian Beer Museum; Old Royal Palace, New Palace (picture gallery) and rose garden; and Michaelsberg Monastery.

BAYREUTH: Bayreuth is mainly famous for its Wagner Opera Festival which takes place every year from late July to August. Other attractions, many of which are connected with the life and works of the composer, include the Festival Theatre (1872-1876), Villa Wahnfried (Wagner’s home, now a museum), Wagner Memorial (‘Chiming Museum’), Freemasons’ Museum, Wagner’s grave in the Court Gardens; the Old and the New Palace, the former residence of the Margraves; Margraves Opera House (largest European Baroque stage); Eremitage (park); and the parish church. The city is also a convenient base for excursions into the Fichtel Mountains, Oberpfälzer Woods and the ‘Franconian Switzerland’.

COBURG: Coburg Castle (13th-16th centuries), one of the largest fortified sites in Germany, towers over this former ducal capital. A one-time refuge of Martin Luther, it now houses valuable collections of art, weaponry and copperplate engravings. Ehrenburg Palace overlooks the palace square and faces the Coburg State Theatre which provides a centre for cultural events. Other attractions include St Maurice’s Church (14th-16th century), the Natural Science Museum and Doll Museum. Nearby countryside offers Banz Monastery, the game park at Tambach Castle and the Rodach Thermal Spa.

INGOLSTADT: Among its fine architecture dating from the 14th and 15th centuries (the Old Town dates from the early ninth century) Ingolstadt also numbers the Neues Schloss, now home of the Bavarian Army Museum, among its attractions. Alte Anatomie offers more offbeat diversions, containing the German Museum of Medical History. The town hosts a major annual international jazz festival each November.

KEMPTEN: In the heart of the Allgäu holiday region to the south west of Bavaria, Kempten is a former Celtic and Roman settlement –the Cambodunum Archaeological Park, with its partial reconstruction on the original site, highlights this heritage. Two more recent buildings, the St Lorenz Basilica and the Residenz Palace feature notable interiors. Museums include the Allgäu Folk Museum and the Alpine Museum.

NUREMBERG: A mainly modern city, Nuremberg (Nürnberg) has nevertheless managed to retain much of its medieval centre. The region’s typical red sandstone forms the fabric of the churches of St Lawrence and St Sebald. Attractions include the Kaiserburg Imperial Castle with its old stables today used as a youth hostel; the City Wall (over 5km/3 miles long) with 80 watchtowers; Dürer’s House; Museum of Toys; Fembohaus (municipal museum); the Post and Communications Museum (with more than 200,000 stamps); Germanic National Museum; German Railway Museum; Town Hall; and the ‘Schöne Brunnen’ Fountain with mechanical clock. The international toy fair and the famous Christmas Fair, Christkindlmarkt, also attract many visitors.

PASSAU: On the Austrian border at the confluence of the Danube, Inn and Ilz rivers, Passau’s attractions include a Baroque Cathedral, with the world’s largest church organ; Bishop’s Palace with Rococo staircase; Oberhaus and Niederhaus fortresses (13th-14th centuries); and Inn Quay with Italianesque architecture.

REGENSBERG: Situated about 80km (50 miles) northeast of Munich, this city can trace its roots back to the first century AD. Attractions of the old episcopal city include the Cathedral (with its famous ‘Regensburger Domspatzen’ choir); St Emmeram’s Church (with many crypts and tombs); the ‘Scottish Church’ (with its Romanesque portal); Old Chapel; Palace Niedermünster (excavations); Porta Praetoria (North Gate); 12th-century stone bridge (the oldest in Germany); boat trips on the Danube; Old Town Hall with the Imperial Chamber; Palace of the Princes of Thurn and Taxis; and museums.

WÜRZBERG: The northern Bavarian town of Würzburg, about halfway between Frankfurt/M and Nuremberg, nestles between vineyards famous for their Bocksbeutel (specially formed bottle). The Festung Marienberg (fortress) offers a spectacular view over the city and its numerous spires. From the 15th-century Old Main Bridge, with its statues of the Franconian apostles of Lilian, Totnan and Kolonat, the Romanesque Cathedral dominates the view.

Attractions include the Mainfränkisches Museum, housed in the former arsenal with examples of the work of Riemenschneider (1460-1531), and the Marienkirche, built in AD 706 and one of the oldest churches in the country. The Baroque Castle-Palace (Residenz), former home of the powerful Prince Bishops, was designed by Balthasar Neumann taking Versailles as a model, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Candlelit Mozart concerts take place during the summer months in the Emperor’s Hall and the Hofgarten. The town library and tourist information are in the Haus zum Falken (Falcon House), which has an impressive Rococo façade.

Numerous wine bars cafes and restaurants provide relaxation and diversion from. Almost the entire city centre is a pedestrian zone, only disturbed by the passage of trams.

Brandenburg

The ‘March’ of Brandenburg surrounding Berlin is a region of birch and pine forests.

The picturesque Spreewald lies south of Berlin and offers numerous waterways for exploration by boat, and tranquil hamlets such as Bückchen. Flat-bottomed barges are still the main means of transport in the heart of this region, as they have been for centuries.

POTSDAM: Potsdam’s major new family attraction is the high-tech Babelsberg Film Theme Park. There are also several fine 18th-century buildings preserved in the city, which boasts three large parks. The Neuer Garten contains the marble palace and Schloss Cecilienhof, where Stalin, Truman and Churchill drafted peace treaties in July and August 1945 during the Potsdam Conference. Sanssouci has the spectacular Sanssouci Palace, which was Frederick the Great’s favourite residence, and a gilded teahouse. The picture gallery next door to the palace contains many old masters. The city’s Dutch Quarter is an attraction in itself, as is the famous Potsdam Bridge, where East and West exchanged spies in all the best espionage films of the Cold War era.

ELSEWHERE: Traces of Frederick the Great are also evident at Rheinsberg, which was immortalised by Kurt Tucholsky’s tale of the same name. The interior of the beautifully situated castle is still undergoing restoration, but visits are possible. One of the towers houses a Tucholsky Memorial. The music academy at Cavalier House concentrates on period music as played at the court of Crown Prince Frederick. The Schorfheide is an area of forest north of Berlin. Beavers, otters and eagles have claimed this picturesque area as their own. In the centre of this landscape of birches and pines lies the Werbellin Lake. Summer concerts at the former Cistercian Monastery of Chorin are another Brandenburg highlight, as is Lehde, where there is an open-air museum with original houses and farm buildings, complete with interiors. There are also several examples of the culture of the Sorbs, a resident Slavic minority.

Hessen

Hessen’s capital is the city of Wiesbaden. The northern part of the state – Kurhesse-Waldeck – boasts lakes, forests and state-recognised health resorts. Hessen has many rural villages with half-timbered houses and still-observed ancient customs.

The German Fairy Tale Road leads through some of these towns. Schwalmstadt, home of ‘Little Red Riding Hood’, is a town where people still wear traditional costumes to church on Sunday and at folk festivals. In the Reinhardswald, Sababurg – now a castle-hotel – inspired the Brothers Grimm to write ‘Sleeping Beauty’. The romantic scenery of the Lahn, a tributary of the Rhine, draws many visitors to Nassau, Wetzlar, Limburg and the Schaumburg Castle. Also on this river is the historic university town of Marburg.

In the far south of Hessen is the rolling hill country of the Odenwald, a region rich in legend and folklore and excellent for hiking. The Bergstrasse traverses the western slopes. The region has a particularly mild climate, permitting cultivation of a wide range of flowers and fruit. Two routes are available for exploring the Odenwald; the Nibelungenstrasse and the Siegfriedstrasse.

Erbach, which has a Baroque palace and a medieval watchtower; Michelstadt with its half-timbered Town Hall and basilica; the resort of Lindenfels; and the spa town of Bad König, are prime attractions. Northwest of Frankfurt and north of Wiesbaden is the wooded hill country of the Taunus, a ski centre during the winter. Resorts here include the old town of Oberursel, the spa town of Bad Homburg and, nearby, the preserved Roman fort of Saalburg, situated on the line marking the frontier of the Roman Empire.

Northeast of Frankfurt is the Baroque town of Fulda, gateway to the Rhön region. Some of the buildings here date back to the ninth century. Further north is Kassel, home of the Grimm Brothers Museum and the Wilhelmshöhe Palace with its magnificent grounds.

DARMSTADT: Darmstadt lies a few miles east of the Rhine. Attractions include the Palace (16th and 17th centuries); Prince George Palace (18th century) with porcelain collection; Hesse Regional Museum; an artists’ colony on Mathildenhöhe; ‘Wedding Tower’ and Russian Chapel; National Theatre on the Marienplatz; and Kranichstein Hunting Lodge with hunting museum and hotel.

FRANKFURT-AM-MAIN: The city of Frankfurt-am-Main is Germany’s major financial and commercial centre. Its soaring skyline has led to its nickname of ‘Mainhattan’. Much of the city suffered destruction in 1944, but extensive restoration has preserved many Old Town buildings, including the Römer, town hall and coronation place of German emperors since 1562. Some ancient buildings survived the war, including part of the cathedral and the 13th-century chapel that once adjoined Frederick Barbarossa’s Palace. In the City Museum there is a perfect scale model of the old town and also the astonishing city silver. The stark Paulus Church was home to the first German parliament in 1848. Other attractions in the city include the zoo; the birthplace of Goethe; the Opera House; the suburbs of Sachsenhausen and Hoechst, both formerly towns in their own right; and the Messe, the exhibition halls complex. The Städel Art Institute houses a large collection of European paintings. The Senckenberg Natural History Museum; Jewish Museum and the Museum of Post and Communication offer more specialised diversion.

WIESBADEN: Wiesbaden is the capital of the state of Hesse. It is an international spa and congress centre in the Taunus and on the Rhine; the spas specialise in the treatment of rheumatism. Attractions include the Kurhaus and casino; the Wilhelmstrasse, with elegant shops and cafes; Hesse State Theatre; the Greek Chapel; international riding and jumping championships in the grounds of Biebrich Palace at Whitsun; boat trips on the Rhine; and woodland walks.

Mecklenburg-Western Pomerania

The state of Mecklenburg-West Pomerania contains a long stretch of Baltic coast, on which lies the former Hanseatic port of Rostock. It is primarily a rural state, with numerous lakes in the Mecklenburgische Seenplatte region to the south, and is popular for water-based and cycling holidays, as well as its beaches.

ROSTOCK: The University, founded in 1419, was the first in Northern Europe. Attractions in the city include the elegant burghers’ houses in Thälmann Square, the 15th-century Town Hall, the late Gothic St Mary’s Church with its 15th-century astronomical clock and Baroque organ and the district of Warnemünde with its fishing harbour and seaside resort. The Schifffahrtsmuseum (Museum of Navigation) tells the story of seafaring from Viking times. Kröpelin Gate houses the City History Museum.

SCHWERIN: State capital, founded in 1160 and, still a charming town. Schwerin Castle, on the lake of the same name and surrounded by a terraced garden crossed by a canal, was for many decades the residence of the Dukes of Mecklenburg and is one of the finest examples of German Gothic architecture. In the historic old quarter of the city are the well-preserved Gothic Cathedral, the Town Hall and an interesting museum with collections of French, German and Dutch paintings from the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries. There is a fine baroque opera house.

ELSEWHERE: Greifswald, a small university town east of Rostock, has original 15th-century burghers’ houses and part of a medieval fishing village. Birthplace of painter Caspar David Friedrich, radical alterations to the city’s appearance resulted from construction of new residential areas and industrial zones in the post-war period. The ‘White Fleet’ of passenger boats serves all the coastal ports, and calls at Hiddensee Island, an island with no cars and a large protected bird colony. The island of Rügen, with its nature reserve and famous chalk cliffs, is Germany’s largest and a popular holiday destination. From Bad Doberan, nine miles west of Rostock, it is possible to take the ‘Molli’ narrow-gauge railway to Germany’s oldest seaside resort, Heiligendamm. Notable at Wismar is the huge market square, covering 10,000 sq m (12,000 sq yards).

Northwest Germany

Undiscovered by many holidaymakers, the northern region, although relatively flat, offers pleasant scenery with gently rolling hills, lake country and fine sandy beaches and dunes in the state of Schleswig-Holstein, bordering on Denmark.

HAMBURG: Hamburg is the second-largest city in Germany with a population of 1.8 million people. It is a city-state, forming with Lübeck, Bremen and Rostock and other European ports the medieval Hanseatic League.

A sightseeing tour, starting at the Hauptbahnhof (main station) gives a good overall impression of the city. The Baroque Church of St Michael (der Michel), the Town Hall with its distinctive green roof, the elegant Hanseviertel, the Alster Arcades and the Alster Lake, the biggest lake inside a European city, are principal sights, along with the Arts Mile, location of most important museums and galleries.

Museums of interest include the domed Hamburg Art Gallery (Kunsthalle), the Historical Museum, the Decorative Arts and Crafts Museum and the Altonaer Museum. Hamburg has many theatres, including the Hamburg State Opera (Hamburgische Staatsoper); Germany’s oldest opera house, John Neumeier Hamburg Ballet; the German Theatre (Deutsches Schauspielhaus); and the Ohnsorgtheater, which performs plays in the Low German dialect (Plattdeutsch).

In the city’s heart is the Planten und Blomen park near the Congress Centrum Hamburg, with its spectacular fountain displays during the summer. During a daytime visit to the park, the Television Tower is a highlight. For a small charge, visitors take the lift to the top platform and enjoy a view of the city, the harbour, the northern districts and the surrounding countryside. Just below is a restaurant, which turns full circle in the course of an hour enabling diners to enjoy every vantage point at their leisure.

Not far from the Television Tower, next to the Feldstrasse underground station, the large Dom funfair takes place several times a year. From Feldstrasse it is not far to the famous St Pauli district, which includes the notorious Reeperbahn, with its various ‘adult’ entertainments. After dark this area comes alive with neon lights, music, crowds, theatres and door staff trying to attract people into their establishments. After a long night out, revellers congregate at the Fischmarkt, which opens at 0630, and sells fruit and vegetables as well as fish. A wide range of harbour trips is available, and the Speicherstadt historic Warehouse Quarter is a must.

Hamburg enjoys unrivalled shopping, with pedestrianised shopping streets, elegant arcades, fine department stores and street cafes concentrated in the area between the main railway station and the Gänsemarkt.

Refuge from a hectic day’s shopping can be sought by hiring a rowing boat or a paddleboat and exploring the Alster and the intricate network of canals (Hamburg has more bridges than Venice) which extends throughout the city. On Sundays, a stroll on the banks of the River Elbe is a favourite pastime or a visit to the Museum Harbour at Övelgönne. The numerous cafes and restaurants make sure that nobody overdoes the walking.

BREMEN: Bremen, also a city-state, with over half a million inhabitants, is the oldest German maritime city, having been a market town since AD 965. For all its history, though, it boasts two of the country’s most modern high-tech visitor attractions: the interactive Universum Science Centre, and the Space Travel Visitor Centre.

Historic Bremen clusters around the marketplace, featuring the Gothic Town Hall (1405-1410), in front of which stands the Roland, the statue of a medieval knight and symbol of the city. The extensive pedestrian zone includes a sculpture of the Bremer Stadtmusikanten (Musicians of Bremen), made famous in the fairy tale by Grimm. Also part of this is the Schnoorviertel, a district full of medieval charm, with narrow cobbled streets now housing art galleries and exclusive shops.

The nearby port of Bremerhaven is home to the German Maritime Museum.

SCHLESWIG-HOLSTEIN: In Schleswig-Holstein is Germany’s ‘Little Switzerland’ and the dukedom of Lauenburg, an area of quiet meadows and wooded hills. Glistening among them are the blue waters of innumerable lakes and fjords reaching deep into the interior of this state. A trip could also include visits to tiny undiscovered towns such as Ratzeburg and Mölln or to one of a string of Baltic resorts such as Timmendorfer Strand, Grömitz and Schönhagen, whose golden, sandy beaches attract summer crowds.

Lübeck, whose picturesque oval-shaped old town, ringed by water, still has many reminders of the city’s medieval golden age and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, claims to be the most beautiful town in northern Germany. The Holsten Gate, the Rathaus and the many examples of northern red brick town houses are part of the historic heritage. Thomas Mann set his famous novel, The Buddenbrooks, here. Buddenbrook House contains the Heinrich and Thomas Mann Centre, giving information on the life and works of both authors.

Flensburg, the most northerly town in the Germany, has architecture dating back to the 16th century and for many years of its history was part of Denmark. Just south of Flensburg is Kappeln an der Schlei, a picturesque small town between the Fjord and the Baltic. Every hour during the summer the traffic comes to a halt when the rotating bridge allows sail and fishing boats to pass. At the beginning of the season in May the Heringstage lure visitors to taste the town’s speciality: herring.

Along the Schlei lies the old Viking town of Haithabu, with its interesting museum.

Further south, still on Schleswig-Holstein’s east coast, is state capital Kiel, a modern city with a large university. It stands on the Nord-Ostsee (Kiel) Canal, which connects the North Sea with the Baltic. In June, yachting and sailing enthusiasts flock to the Kiel Week. One of Germany’s biggest passenger ports, Kiel’s highlights include a Maritime Museum, the Molfsee Open Air Museum and the Oceanographic Institute Aquarium.

Large systems of dykes protect the low-lying western coast of Schleswig-Holstein from constant pounding by waves. Sea breezes, a wealth of bird species and nature reserves make the North Friesian Islands of Sylt, Föhr and Amrum a favourite for nature holidays. Ferries connect with the numerous Halligen, small flat islets off the coast.

WESTPHALIA: Westphalia extends from the Rhine to the Weser Valley. For many, Westphalia conjures up images of the industrial Ruhr Valley (see below), but the region is also one of outstanding natural beauty and historical interest. Highlights include the Teutoburger Forest with its nature reserves; the ancient episcopal see of Münster (whose attractions include the newly opened Pablo Picasso Graphics Museum containing nearly 800 original lithographs); and the Sauerland Region, an area of lakes, forests and hills, providing good skiing in winter and walks at any time.

Major cities along the Rhine in the west of the state are described in The Rhineland section.

THE RUHR VALLEY: South of Münster is the heavily industrialised Ruhr. Made up of several large cities merging to form one huge conurbation, the Ruhrgebiet is, however, also a vibrant centre of culture with many museums, theatres, art galleries and opera houses. The region also has a large number of parks providing refuge from the industrial landscape. Many older buildings survive from the days when this was an agricultural area dotted with small towns.

The main cities of the Ruhr are (from west to east): Krefeld; Duisburg, Germany’s largest internal port; Mühlheim; Essen, (in the heart of the region, and home to Germany’s newest UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Zollverein Coke Plant); Bochum; and Dortmund, centre of Germany’s brewing industry. South of the Ruhr and bordering the beautiful Siegerland and Sauerland regions is Wuppertal, which, stretched out along its own valley, is home to a unique suspension railway urban transit system, the Schwebebahn.

LOWER SAXONY: East Friesland, on the North Sea coast of Lower Saxony, consists of a wide plain interspersed by ranges of tree-covered hills known for their health resorts and modern spa facilities, as well as their fine sandy beaches. The car-free East Friesian Islands also offer relaxing health-oriented holidays. Sea air and scenery along the coast guarantee a happy and restful holiday atmosphere.

In contrast is the large nature reserve between the rivers Elbe and Aller further inland. The countryside comprises moorland with wide expanses of heather, grazing sheep, clumps of green birch trees and junipers. Of interest in this area are the half-timbered houses of Celle and Lüneburg, historic centre of Germany’s salt industry.

Further west is the town of Oldenburg, economic and cultural centre of the region between the Ems and the Weser; to the north is the spa town of Wilhelmshaven, which has as its speciality relaxing and therapeutic mud baths. It is also the starting point for many tours along the East Friesland coast and the off-lying islands.

Romantic Germany can be found in the Weser Valley, near Hanover (see below), where there are fairytale towns such as Hameln (Hamlyn), famed for the tale of the Pied Piper. A play about the infamous piper is re-enacted during the summer months every Sunday at noon. The town has several buildings in Weser Renaissance style. Here is also the romantic area of the Weserbergland with numerous hill ranges and deep forests.

In the east of the state is Wolfsburg, home of Volkswagen cars. Autostadt (Car City), an unusual and major new visitor attraction dedicated to cars, opened recently on a 10 hectare (25 acre) site in the heart of the city.

HANOVER: The state capital of Lower Saxony hosts the renowned Hanover Trade Fair. The ‘Big City in the Park’ is also an important tourist draw, with many interesting sights. Attractions, linked for visitors’ benefit by a 4.2km (2.5 mile) route marked by a red line on the pavements, include the Herrenhausen Castle with its baroque gardens incorporating a new rainforest house. The annual music and theatre festival, which is performed on open-air stages within the garden, attracts many visitors each summer. The city also has a 14th-century market church, the Marienkirche, several museums and a 15th-century town hall with the famous gable. There are also numerous museums, such as the Sprengel Museum near the Masch Lake, which is becoming an important centre for modern art.

Rhineland

Rhineland is Germany’s oldest cultural centre. Names such as Cologne, Aachen and Mainz are synonymous with soaring Gothic architecture and with the history and lives of many of the great names of Western Europe.

However, the area consists of more than a series of riverside cities. Here too are the vast plains of the Lower Rhine farmlands, the strange volcanic crater lakes of the Eifel Hills, the Bergische Land with its lakes and Altenberg Cathedral and the Siebengebirge. Rhineland and the Moselle Valley attract visitors not only for their beauty and romanticism, but also for the convivial atmosphere engendered by wine and song.

Like most of its tributaries, vineyards line the Rhine wherever the slopes face the sun. Alternating with the vineyards are extensive orchards, which in spring are heavy with blossom.

The Ahr Valley in the Eifel region is particularly famous for its lush scenery and its red wine; nearby is the famous Nürburgring racing circuit. Trier, the oldest German town close to the Luxembourg border, stands on the River Moselle. The city houses the most important Roman ruins north of the Alps. Following the River Moselle eastwards towards Koblenz are several towns well known among wine connoisseurs – Bernkastel-Kues, Kröv, Beilstein and Cochem.

The Rhine Valley between Cologne and Mainz is also world famous for its wines and wine festivals during the autumn. Eltz Castle is located deep in the woods near the Elzbach River. The Rhine Gorge’s numerous castles include Stolzenfels, Marksburg Castle, Rheinfels at St Goar and the Schönburg Castle at Oberwesel.

Along the Cologne–Mainz route, the KD German Rhine Line operates boats between Good Friday and the end of October enabling the passenger to enjoy the view of both sides of the river with vineyards and picturesque villages lining the banks. Spectacular Rhein in Flammen (Rhine in Flames) fireworks and son et lumière events take place at various venues along the river throughout each summer.

DÜSSELDORF: One of the great cities of the industrial north, this important commercial and cultural centre is the state capital of North Rhine-Westphalia (Nordrhein-Westfalen). The city developed over 700 years from small fishing village at the mouth of the Düssel River to the country’s leading foreign trade centre. It is extremely prosperous, with a fine opera house as well as many concert halls, galleries and art exhibitions. There are over 20 theatres and 17 museums, including the State Art Gallery of North Rhine-Westphalia, the Kunsthalle (City Exhibition Hall) and the late Baroque Benrath Palace. The major exhibition centre is to the north of Hofgarten, which has been staging trade fairs since Napoleonic times. The heart of the city is the Königsallee or ‘Kö’, a wide boulevard bisected by a waterway and lined with trees, cafés, fashionable shops and modern shopping arcades. Nearby are the botanical gardens, the Hofgarten, the Baroque Jägerhof Castle and the state legislature. Other attractions include the ruined 13th-century castle, St Lambertus Church, the rebuilt 16th-century Town Hall, Benrath Palace in southern Düsseldorf and the Hetjens Museum, a shrine to ceramics and pottery.

COLOGNE: An old Roman city, Cologne (Köln) is an important cultural and commercial centre holding many trade fairs each year. Germany’s biggest indoor arena opened in the city recently. Principal attractions include the Cathedral of St Peter and St Mary (13th-19th century); the golden reliquary of the Three Magi; the Romanesque churches of St Pantaleon, St George, St Apostein, St Gereon and St Kunibert, the Gothic churches of St Andreas and the Minoritenkirche and Antoniterkirche; the medieval city wall and the Roman-Germanic Museum. There are several examples of preserved Roman art, among them the Dionysus mosaic, the Praetorium, the sewage system and the catacombs. The Wallraf-Richartz Museum (paintings) is located in a controversial modern building next to the main railway station and the river. The Schnütgen Museum contains medieval ecclesiastical art. The Zoo, the Chocolate Museum and the Rhine Park with its ‘dancing fountains’ are further attractions. The city is a major starting point for boat trips on the Rhine. It also has a famous carnival. The lovingly reconstructed Altstadt (old town) is enjoyable on foot as is the extensive pedestrian shopping zone.

Near the town of Brühl, just southwest of Cologne, is the popular theme park, Phantasialand.

ACHEN: The beautiful spa town of Aachen (Aix-la-Chapelle) was capital of the empire of Charlemagne. It is not actually on the Rhine, standing 50km (30 miles) west of Cologne on the borders of three countries – Germany, Belgium and The Netherlands – and nearby is a point where a person can stand in all three at once. Attractions in Aachen include the Cathedral (Kaiserdom); Charlemagne’s marble throne; the Octagonal Chapel; the Town Hall built between 1333 and 1370 on the ruins of the imperial palace; Suermond Museum (paintings, sculptures); and the elegant fountains of sulphurous water, bearing witness to the spa statues of the city. Each July, Aachen hosts an international horse riding, jumping and driving tournament.

BONN: Until the end of 2000, when the government moved to Berlin, Bonn was administrative capital of Germany. In the south of the city is the former spa of Bad Godesberg, which is also the embassy district and offers a good selection of international restaurants and shops. Attractions include the Cathedral (11th-13th centuries) and cloisters; Kreuzberg Chapel, approached by a flight of ‘holy steps’; Schwarzrheindorf Church (1151); Town Hall (1737) and market square; art collections in the Godesberg (1210); Redoute (1792); Poppelsdorf Palace (1715-40) and botanical garden; the Beethoven Birthplace Museum and much general theatrical and musical activity associated with his life; Pützchens Market (September); the University (1725) and Hofgarten. Excursion possibilities include the Siebengebirge, the Ahr Valley, Brühl Castle and the Nürburgring. The city also has many parkland areas, such as the Kottenforst, Venusberg and Rhine Promenade.

KOBLENZ: Koblenz lies at the confluence of the Rhine and the Moselle. From the Ehrenbreitstein Fortress (1816-32) visitors have a spectacular view over the Deutsches Eck Monument to German unity (of 1870) and the confluence of the Rhine and Moselle rivers. Other attractions include the Old Town; the Weindorf (Wine Village); Monastery Church (12th-13th centuries); former Electors’ Palace; Collegiate Church of St Florin (12th century with a 14th-century chancel); and Church of Our Lady (12th century with a 15th-century chancel). Ehrenbreitstein also houses a Beethoven Museum.

RÜDESHEIM: On the Rhine south of Koblenz, Rüdesheim is famous for its Drosselgasse, a narrow lane with many little wine bars and pubs, some serving the delicious Rüdesheimer Kaffee (locally produced brandy with coffee). The Asbach Distillery is open to visitors, and there is also the unusual Museum of Mechanical Musical Instruments. A cable car from Rüdesheim takes visitors up to the beautiful Niederwald Castle, a starting point for walks in the Taunus hills. It is also a popular starting point for many of the Rhine cruises. Almost midway between Rüdesheim and Koblenz is the Rhine’s symbol, Lorelei Rock, which has provided the inspiration for many songs about its legendary siren.

TRIER: On the banks of the Moselle, a Rhine tributary, Trier is near the Luxembourg frontier, about 100km (60 miles) southwest of Koblenz. It is the oldest city in Germany, a Roman imperial capital in the third and fourth centuries AD, and UNESCO World Heritage Site. Attractions include The Porta Nigra (city gate, second century); Roman Imperial Baths; Basilica; Amphitheatre; Cathedral (fourth century); Gothic Church of Our Lady; Simeonsstift with 11th-century cloisters; Church of St Matthew (Apostle’s grave); Church of St Paulinus (designed by Balthasar Neumann); Regional Museum; Episcopal Museum; Municipal Museum; Municipal Library (with notable manuscripts); and the birthplace of Karl Marx.

SAARBRÜCKEN: Saarbrücken is mainly a modern industrial city, and capital of the state of Saarland, sandwiched between the Rhineland and the French and Luxembourg frontiers. The city lies on the River Saar, a Moselle tributary. Saarbrücken is a modern industrial city. Attractions include the Church of St Ludwig and Ludwigsplatz (1762-75); the Collegiate Church of St Arnual (13th and 14th centuries); a palace with grounds and a Gothic church; and a Franco-German garden with a miniature town (Gulliver’s Miniature World). Close to Saarbrücken, at Völklingen, is the Hütte Steelworks UNESCO World Heritage Site.

MAINZ: State capital of Rhineland-Palatinate (Rheinland-Pfalz), this university town and episcopal see dating back 2000 years is situated on the rivers Rhine and Main. Attractions include the international museum of printing (Gutenberg Museum); the 1000-year-old Cathedral; Electors’ Palace; Roman Jupiter Column (AD 67); ‘Sparkling Hock’ Museum; Citadel with monument to General Nero Claudius Drusus; old half-timbered houses; Mainzer Fassenacht (carnival); and the Wine Market (late August and early September). The sunny slopes of the Rhinegau Hills are centre of one of the world’s most famous wine-producing regions.

Saxony

Best-known of the former GDR states, Saxony (Sachsen) is famous for cities like Dresden, Leipzig, and of course pottery town Meissen.

The Erzgebirge region near Dresden lies on the border with the Czech Republic. Its mountainous wooded landscape makes it ideal for walkers in the summer and skiers in the winter. Sächsische Schweiz (Saxon Switzerland) is now a national park, its sandstone mountains attracting many visitors. Chemnitz (formerly Karl-Marx-Stadt) is the main town in this region. It was heavily bombed during the war and only a few of its historic buildings remain, such as the Old Town Hall (16th century) and the 800-year-old Red Tower; others are Freiberg, Kuchwald, with its open-air theatre, and Seifen with its toy museum. Zwickau was birthplace of Robert Schumann and is home to a late Gothic Cathedral, a Town Hall dating back to 1403 and numerous old burghers’ houses.

DRESDEN: With over 500,000 inhabitants, this is one of the largest cities in southeast Germany. Its heyday was during the 17th and 18th centuries when August the Strong and subsequently his son August III ruled Saxony. The most famous building in the city is the restored Zwinger Palace, which contains many old masters in its picture gallery, among them the Sistine Madonna by Raphael. Allied bombings destroyed much of the Baroque magnificence of the city, once known as the ‘Florence of the Elbe’ during World War II. However, some of the finest buildings, such as the Catholic Hofkirche, the Palace Church, the Semper Opera and the Green Vault treasure chamber of the Saxon Princes, either survived the bombings or have been restored in the intervening period. The Frauenkirche, since 1945 a chilling reminder of wartime horrors, is under reconstruction – a project due for completion in 2006. Other attractions include the Arsenal, which has a vast collection of armour and weapons from the Middle Ages to the present day, the fountains in the Pragerstrasse, the old market, the Philharmonic Orchestra and the Kreuz Choir. The Dresden district is home to the minority Sorbs, a Slavic people who settled there in the sixth century. Sorb-language newpapers and broadcasts combine with teaching in local schools to preserve the culture.

LEIPZIG: Leipzig has a fascinating history. Lenin printed the first issues of his Marxist newspaper here. Lessing, Jean-Paul Sartre and Goethe all studied at the university. Music and books are important – there are no less than 38 publishers in the city, and it is Wagner’s birthplace. The German Museum of Books claims to be the world’s oldest of its kind. Mendelssohn was director of music, and Bach was choirmaster, at the now completely restored St Thomas’ Church, between 1723 and 1750. There are museums dedicated to both composers in the city. Bach’s church choir still exists and is of an excellent standard, as is the city’s Gewandhaus Orchestra. The old University (1407), the famous Auerbach’s Cellar and the Kaffeebaum, the most famous of the city’s cafes, are further attractions in the city. Today Leipzig stages major international trade fairs.

MEISSEN: Meissen is the oldest china manufacturing town in Europe, famous for its fine Meissen china. Visitors can tour the factory. The narrow streets of old Meissen retain their historic charm. The Albrechtsburg Cathedral (1485) and the Bishop’s Castle tower above the city. Meissen is also the centre of a wine-growing region.

Saxony-Anhalt

Saxony-Anhalt (Sachsen-Anhalt) boasts no less than four UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Martin Luther’s Birthplace at Eisleben, the Old Town of Quedlinberg, the Castle at Wittenberg, and Dessau’s Bauhausstätten. Among the towering scenery of the Harz Mountains, a region ideal for walking and winter sports holidays and dotted with villages with attractive carved timber-fronted houses, lies the town of Wernigerode whose castle and 16th-century Town Hall endow it with a fairytale air. There is a museum of church relics here. On a walk the visitor can see half-timbered houses of six centuries, among them the Crooked House. The Harz is also one of the most beautiful hiking areas in Germany; since December 1989, hikers have been able to enjoy the Brocken (highest point of the Harz) again. Half-timbered houses characterise Stolberg, ‘Pearl of the South Harz region’, where the Town Hall, dating back to 1492, contains no inner staircase. Just to the south lies the city of Halle, birthplace of Handel, and where Martin Luther often preached in the Marienkirche in the Market Square.

South of Halle lies the historic town of Naumburg with its beautiful late Romanesque/early Gothic Cathedral of St Peter and St Paul. A recommended excursion from here takes in the old Hanseatic towns of Salzwedel, Stendal and Tangermünde to see the medieval fortifications.

MAGDEBURG: Located on the banks of the Elbe to the southwest of Berlin, Magdeburg is state capital. It has a busy arts scene. One of its most popular attractions is the Elbauenpark on the river, with the tallest wooden tower in the world, the Millennium Tower. The tower contains an exhibition on 6000 years of human development. Cathedral Square, with its Gothic church surrounded by Baroque buildings, stands at the heart of the old city centre, with the Old Market Square (site of the Magdeburg Knight monument) and the Town Hall.

DESSAU: ‘Second home’ of the Bauhaus Architectural School, which moved from Weimar in the mid-1920s, and whose building, the Bauhausstätten, designed by Walter Gropius, is a designated World Heritage Site.

QUEDLINBURG: 55km (34 miles) southwest of Magdeburg, this town has many 16th-century half-timbered houses such as the Finkenherd and a Renaissance Town Hall, all restored to their original condition.

WITTENBERG: One of the most famous Reformation towns, where Martin Luther nailed his ‘95 Theses Against Indulgences’ to the door of the castle church in 1517. Numerous magnificent buildings from the 16th century – Luther’s House, the Melanchton House, the Castle Church and the buildings of the former University bear witness to the town’s historical significance.

Thuringia

Thuringia (Thüringen) lies between Saxony and Hesse, and is the most westerly of the old ‘East’ German states. Major centres include Erfurt, Jena and Weimar. The wooded heights and slate mountains of the Thuringian Forest make the region an ideal area for walking. The best known hiking route is the Rennsteig which stretches for over 168km (105 miles). The entire region of the Rennsteig is a protected zone and is therefore immune to any industrial or urban development.

A flourishing craft industry and winter sports facilities centred in Suhl also draw visitors to the state. Eisenach, birthplace of Johann Sebastian Bach, contains the oldest Town Gate in Thuringia and the Romanesque Nikolai Church. Wartburg Castle, where Martin Luther sought refuge and translated the New Testament into German, dominates the town. The small town of Rudolstadt was known for its cultural life during the Renaissance, hosting plays of the Weimar Court Theatre, directed by Goethe, and founding a renowned court orchestra in 1635 which attracted many of the best classical musicians. It is now a popular stop along Thuringia’s Classic Road. Arnstadt, where the young Bach was an organist at the local church, is the ‘Gateway’ to the Thuringia Forest, with its lush hiking trails and magnificent views.

Other noteworthy sites in the region include Gera with its Renaissance Town Hall and fine Burghers’ Houses, the castle ruins at Friedrichsroda, the imperial city Nordhausen with its late Gothic Cathedral and Renaissance Town Hall and the picturesque town of Mühlhausen.

ERFURT: The cultural centre of Thuringia, and state capital. Formerly a rich trading centre, its well-preserved, medieval city centre contains a wealth of churches, cloisters and old merchants' houses. Dating from 1392, the university is one of northern Europe’s oldest. Martin Luther lived as a monk in the city's Augustinian monastery, which displays exhibits relating to his life. Erfurt's museums contain valuable collections of medieval treasures.

JENA: Famous for its optical industry, Jena also offers the world’s oldest Planetarium, nowadays equipped with the latest laser technology. The Optics Museum contains extensive collections of spectacles and Zeiss microscopes. Collegium Jenense, the original 16th-century university building, is also open to visitors. For children, the interactive Imaginata interpretation centre encourages exploration of a variety of topics.

WEIMAR: The southern 1000-year-old town of Weimar was home to many great men, including Luther, Bach, Liszt, Wagner and Schiller. An important cultural centre of the past, the city experienced its golden age in the 18th and 19th centuries. Johann Wolfgang von Goethe lived here for 50 years and was a major influence as civil servant, theatre director and poet. His house is now the Goethe National Museum. Literature enthusiasts should not miss the Goethe and Schiller Archive. Bach was Court Organist and Court Concertmaster, Liszt and Richard Strauss were both directors of music. There is documentation of their private and public lives kept in hotels and museums in the town. Weimar was also the original home of the Bauhaus architectural school before it moved to Dessau (see the Saxony-Anhalt section). The modern Weimar House multimedia presentation tells the full story of the city. A few kilometres from Weimar, a museum occupies the former site of the Buchenwald concentration camp.

For more information on Germany go to our home page and click on "Destinations".   When you get to destinations go to "Europe" and then to  "Germany".   Once you are in the Germany site, page through the various sites which will give you lots of useful information.   Also you may want to visit the following sites:  www.visiteurope.com or www.germany-tourism.de

April 2004

 Ireland

Introduction

The 2200km (3500 miles) of Ireland’s coastline embrace a remarkable diversity of scenery and conditions from long, gently sloping strands (beaches) and rocky sea cliffs and headlands to raised bogs, outstanding mountains, attractive villages and towns, prehistoric and religious sites – and a laid-back approach to life that is without equal. The shape and comparatively small size of Ireland means that nowhere is very far from the sea. But beware, many of Ireland’s roads are narrow, and the through routes are heavily used.

Resorts and beaches in Ireland are uncrowded, and the tourism infrastructure is underpinned by a network of more than 50 tourist information offices offering help, advice, accommodation and suggestions on all aspects of travel. Most tourist offices are open Mon-Fri 0900-1800, closing on Saturday at 1300, but times vary, with offices at seaports and airports generally open longer during the summer months.

In this review, the country has been divided into six arbitrary regions embracing a number of counties within each:

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